To all the nature lovers out there looking for a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of a cosmopolitan city like Bangalore, Chikmagalur is recommended as one of the best travel destinations. A quaint town nestled in the foothills of the Mullayanagiri range, Chikmagalur is also considered as the birthplace of coffee in India. Being roughly 250 odd kms’ from Bangalore, it translates to a 4 – 4.5 hour drive, all along dotted with scenic mountains and lush greenery. Add to it the gorgeous rumbling of the south-west monsoons, with which we played catch-up during our entire trip.
Day 1: Adventure begins here!
The journey started early for us as we left Bangalore city towards our destination by 7:00 am sharp, trying to test the liveliness and zing of the All New Swift! The preferred route is the through NH75 via Neelamangala – Kunigal – Shravanabelagola – Hassan – Belur. A sumptuous breakfast around 9:30 am ensured we reached our destination city by around 12 noon. Brilliant roads ensured a pleasant drive with bursts of rain keeping the weather pleasant.
There are a host of options available for stay in Chikmagalur - however in our opinion, the best option is to choose a plantation stay. We've now visited Chikmagalur at different seasons of the year (and can vouch for it all year long)! Even though most preferable is during the monsoon, we've also been there once during the winters. During our monsoon visit, we had chosen a 150 year old homestay,'Guddadamane Homestay'. Nestled among a beautiful private coffee plantation and lush green forests along with delicious Malnad cuisine served by the owners, this home-stay is perfect to spend a leisurely time with family. At the same time, if you crave for a modern take to your stay, you can choose 'Aakriti Homestay'. A quiet, secluded place topped with a swimming pool & a private kitchen, this place has a separate appeal to it.
The above set of pictures are a representation of the beauty and charm of an old rustic Guddadamane homestay as maintained by the Guddadamane family. Amidst a private coffee plantation serves as an added incentive along with the care afforded by the hosts. This is the perfect place for leisurely time with family - just soak in all the greenery surrounding you. Guddadamane Homestay is nestled between coffee plantations and is a good 25 km off the city center. For the adventurous ones who love the smell of soil fresh from a downpour amidst continuous chirping in the trees, roll down your windows and take it all in. The route to the home-stay has coffee plantations and tall trees on one side and a drop on the other. Add to it the sudden bursts of rain and descending clouds. Coffee is the need of the hour and our hosts were very friendly and co-operative in helping us settle in. Malnad cuisine awaited us for dinner along with a bonfire – nights do tend to get chilly in here. Small cottages made cozy by the ambiance while we snugged in listening to the constant pouring of the rain!
At the same time, the pictures below showcase a more modern homestay built on a parcel of land - Aakriti Homestay. Notice the clear blue skies, enticing pool, private kitchenette with balcony & green pastures perfect for a lazy winter afternoon. This homestay has only 3 private rooms, hence keeping the private factor maintained. Same as the other, evenings do tend to be a little chilly. However, the Aakriti Homestay is decked up at night with pretty fairy lights and is a treat to behold. Add to it the charm of a bonfire & some grilled chicken starters.
Day 2: Let’s etch our names in history!
Chikmagalur, especially for budding adventurists has a lot to offer in the form of scenic drives, dotted coffee plantation visits and cloud covered peaks. Some of the offbeat paths along the coffee plantations, lush greenery , crickets chirping in the trees and the nonchalant rain makes this journey so special.
There are quite a few places to visit here, notable among the same are:
Mullayanagiri peak, almost 2000 metres above sea level is a must visit.
The Baba Budangiri peak
A host of pretty waterfalls like Hebbe falls, Manikyadhara falls, Kallathigiri which spring to life during the monsoons and are a sight to behold.
Hirekolale Lake is an offbeat spot but very serene
A scenic drive to Sringeri Mutt
The Channakeshava Temple in Belur
The day kicked off with a short walk in the coffee plantation – absorbing all the greenery around.
Post breakfast, we decided to take the route towards historical places and headed towards the Sringeri Mutt – a drive of roughly 80-100 km. Situated on the banks of river Tunga and established by the great Adi Shankaracharya, it indeed is one of the places ticked off the bucket list. The drive is beautifully landscaped through coffee plantations and small quaint water-falls springing out of the hills.
Another itinerary plan would be to cover the Mullayanagiri Peak & Hebbe Falls followed by the Hirekolale Lake. This is an arduous plan since it involves a lot of physical exertion - hence best suited for young adults.
Mullanyangiri Peak, at a height of almost 2000 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Karnataka. The view from the summit is unparalleled, and often, covered in a blanket of clouds during monsoons. The lush green fields, the rugged rocks & the misty weather make for an interesting spectacle. Below is the same peak during the winters. There are options of road biking, mountain riding & trekking at this location. During the peak monsoon season, the parking lot at the base of the Mullanyangiri hills is the maximum one can go to. However, during the winters, we could drive up all the way to the base of the summit. The peak was a mere 500 steps away. However, the drive to the peak is pretty narrow & has a steep incline. It's recommended to exercise caution while driving.
Hebbe Falls was the next item on our itinerary. Located within a coffee plantation & requiring a short Jeep ride and a trek to reach, this is indeed one of the most gorgeous waterfalls ever visited. Gushing down from a height of almost 550 feet, the Hebbe falls is indeed a sight to behold. Professional trekkers can trek the entire distance of 35 Kms on foot, throughout the day to reach this beauty. For the lesser mortals like us, we took the services of the government approved forest Jeep & made our way through private estates. However, one still needs to trek the last mile from the Khoday's estate to reach the falls. Jeeps charge around INR 3500-4000 per jeep for a group of 6-8 people from Kemmangundi.
The above pictures are from the short trek from the estate to the Hebbe Falls. There are scenic wonders that will keep you enthralled throughout. One can hear the sound of the splashing water in the distance through the entire trek, heightening your sense of excitement & suspense. And once you reach within viewing distance of this majesty, the joy is almost childlike. Take a dip in the cold water & enjoy your stay at this hidden gem!
Hirekolale Lake is one of the most picturesque locations to visit in Chikmagalur. Located at the base of the Mullanyangiri Hills, this man-made lake is the source of water for the town of Chikamagalur & provides water for irrigation purposes. The greenery surrounding the lake, the hills in the background & the mesmerising views at the time of twilight are an instant hit with the photography lovers! The pictures below depict the same lake in two different seasons - one during the monsoons & another during the winters! The evening came to a close with the campfire and some Tagore songs.
Day 3: Wrapping it up!
Well, all good things do come to an end! We checked out of our home-stay with heavy hearts and a couple of packets of home grown coffee to savor while in Bangalore. The hosts were extremely accommodating. On the way back, decided to stop by at Belur and remind ourselves of the rich history India holds. Belur is host to the remains of the Hoysala empire – boasting of some outstanding architecture in stone. The sculptural brilliance of the Chennakesava Temple is often compared to that of Khajuraho.
This 12th century temple situated in Belur, Hassan district of Karnataka was built over three generations & took 103 years to complete. Repeatedly plundered & damaged during wars, this temple was constantly rebuilt and repaired over its history. The temple is remarkable for its architecture, sculptures, reliefs, friezes as well its iconography, inscriptions and history. The temple artwork depicts scenes of secular life in the 2nd century, dancers and musicians, as well as a pictorial narration of Hindu texts such as the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas through numerous friezes.
Having witnessed nature in all its glory, we headed back to Bangalore with a bag full of memories. Until next time.
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